Valbonë and the Accursed Mountains

Albania may not be that well-known as a tourist attraction in Europe, let alone as a trekking & hiking destination. But its Albanian Alps is not just any hiking destination - it's a truly spectacular one.

Also known as the 'Accursed Mountains', the most popular trek/hike is between the villages of Theth & Valbonë. Unfortunately, I visited Valbonë in early spring, and the mountain pass between the two villages are still closed due to heavy snow, so I couldn't do the trek. In fact, the two days I was there, it was snowing and raining intermittently, and so the day-treks that I could do around Valbonë itself was also limited. Nevertheless, the mountain scenery was still breathtaking even if the canvas was a cloudy grey.

Hiking in the Albanian Alps

Hiking from this.....

...to this! Too much snow for further hiking

Beautiful clear pools too

The best resource for this region is the website Journey to Valbona. Catherine, the driving force behind that setup, is a pot of energy and enthusiasm. Accommodation info, trekking maps, friendly chatter and all-round hospitality is available at her place. When I visited her, she was busy with the preparation for the official start of the trekking season due in a week. (Yes, I was early by 1 week! :( )
She even arrange local volunteers to check the hiking trails to ensure that the signs and markers are still visible. I stayed at the 'Farmhouse' just to savor Nene Sose Selimaj's homecooked food! A truly pleasant stay.

Guesthouse in Valbona

Homecooked food by Mother Sose Selimaj

Local minivan transport is available between Shkodra (a place to visit in is own right) and Theth, while Valbonë is similarly reached via the town of Bajram Curri. The lonelyplanet guide highly recommended the Koman Ferry route from Shkodra to Fierza (on Lake Komani) and then to Bajram Curri by minivan. Otherwise, if you are in Tirana, there are minivans plying between Bajram Curri and Tirana, but note that the route goes through Kosovo (ie you will go through entry and exit immigration to Kosovo!). For me, it worked out great as I planned on visiting Kosovo after Valbonë and it was just 2hours between Bajram Curri and Prizren.

Visitors to Albania would no doubt usually cover Tirana and the UNESCO sites south of it (Berat, Gjirokastr, Butrint) but for those who love nature and hiking, check out Valbonë and the Accursed Mountains up at the north!

Alpenglow

Helambu Trek, Nepal

Nepal is one of the top trekking places in the world, with the famous Annapurna Himalayan range as one of its most popular and most visited backdrop. Treks range from 3-18 days, so there is one to fit most people's schedule and fitness. And this is only one part of Nepal!

I've decided to try a less touristy trek, and I have 6 days. So I opted for the Helambu trek, which is part of a bigger Langtang-Gosainkunda-Helambu trek. The Langtang region is also a beautiful trekking region, and Helambu is south of the mountain range. Here's some feedback regarding this trek.

One of the plus points of this trek is its accessibility from Kathmandu. Trekkers to the Annapurna region would have to get to Pokhara, which is either a 7-8hr bus ride or a flight. The Helambu trailhead, on the other hand, is just an hour bus ride away from Kathmandu! At the end of the trek at Melamchi Puul Bazaar, it is also just a 4hr bus back to Kathmandu.

The highlight of the trek is the 3rd day/night at Therapati (3600m). So essentially, the first 2 days of the trek is the ascent to reach Therapati (from 1500m), and the 4th+5th day is the descent. The thing I didn't like about the trek is that most of the ascent (and descent) is all "bunched up". Especially the 4th day after Therapati, it was a continuous 4-hr steep descent which is a sure recipe for feet blisters and damaged knees.

The scenary during the trek is mostly of terraced fields and villages against the mountainous backdrop of the Langtang Himal, Jugal Himal range etc. So expect plenty of greenery. However, my first 2 days of the trek was marked by heavy mists and clouds, which is not common at this time of the year (Oct). So even though at Chisopani (first night), famous for its sunrise views and popular for weekend trips by the locals, I didn't quite get to see a good sunrise. Luckily, when I arrived in Therapati, the weather turned for the better, and it was a spectacular highlight. The lodge/guesthouse was set amidst a spectacular backdrop of mountains, and the setting was picture-perfect. Add to it a beautiful sunset, and an equally enchanting sunrise the next morning, it certainly washed away any negativity of the previous days.

At the end of the day, I had mixed feelings for the trek. If not for the wonderful highlight at Therapati, I would not have enjoyed the trek as much, the main gripe being the long continuous steep ascent/descent on the trek. I also didn't get good weather for half the trip but weather is not something anyone can control.

So for those wanting to experience a short less touristy trek, as opposed to something immensely popular like the Poon Hill trek, this is something to consider.

Terraced fields with snowcapped mountains as backdrop

Contrast of the fertile land and bare snowy mountains

Alpenglow on the Jugal Himal range at Therapati

Sunset in Therapati - High in the clouds

Guesthouse in the mountains (Therapati, 3600m)

Misty atmospheric post-sunrise at Therapati

Village life - one of the key aspects of the trek in Helambu

Durmitor National Park, Montenegro

Most travelers to Montenegro would make a beeline to its coast, notably to Kotor or Budva. And why not? Easily accessed from Dubrovnik in Croatia, Montenegro's tourism could easily benefit from Dubrovnik's popularity. But for those who love mountains, Montenegro has something to offer too!

Up in the northern part of Montenegro, Durmitor National Park is Montenegro's biggest national park. It is also inscribed in UNESCO's World Heritage Sites. Within the park are 18 glacier lakes and the Durmitor mountain range consists of 48 peaks. 3 river canyons meander through it, of which the Tara river canyon is the biggest at 80km long and 1300m deep! So in terms of scenery, sights, and activities, there are certainly no lack of it for tourists.

Zabljak - early "spring"

The access town to Durmitor National Park is Zabljak. During winter, most tourists come for skiing and in summer, there are plenty of hiking opportunities to keep tourists happy. In fact, just a short distance away from the town is one of the most popular of Durmitor's 18 glacier lakes - Black Lake. Numerous hiking trails surround the lake too, and so, makes for an easy and excellent outing from Zabljak.

Black Lake

Aside from glorious mountain views, the Tara river provides another avenue for a popular tourist activity - river rafting. Set within the Tara canyon, the river shone like a turquoise snake in the mountainside. And one of the best views of the canyon, river and mountains is from the Curovac viewpoint, 9km from Zabljak. However, when I was there in early spring, there was still heavy snow, and I couldn't quite make it to the viewpoint. Even then, from a rest-point along the trail, the views were already stunning!

Rest point with a view

Trail to Curovac viewpoint

The Tara River and Canyon

Durmitor National Park - winter to spring

Zabljak is easily reached from Podgorica, and Kotor even. For those who are touring the Balkans, try the border crossing from Bosnia and Herzegovina into Montenegro. Take the Sarajevo-Niksic bound bus. While not as popular, the scenery at the border crossing is fabulous!

Do check out the mountains of Montenegro!

Kazbegi Georgia

The Caucasus Mountains is a range of mountains stretching through Eurasia, and one of the easiest ways to visit part of the mountains is through the town of Stepantsminda in Georgia, more commonly known as Kazbegi.

Respite in glorious mountain scenery

Just about 3+hours northeast from Tbilisi, Kazbegi sits at an altitude of about 1750m, and is an excellent mountain getaway. Most prominently, Mt Kazbek rises beautifully west of town, and together with Gergeti Trinity Church, perched atop the surrounding mountain at 2000+m, forms an almost iconic image of Kazbegi and Georgia.

Tsminda Samebis Church, with Mt Kazbek as backdrop

Gergeti Trinity Church, also known as Tsminda Samebis Church, can be easily visited by jeeps from town, but the best way is probably taking a hike up. In fact, many travelers come here for the wonderful trekking opportunities, and even the short hike up provided a glimpse of the scenic potential. And for the slightly more hardy, you can even trek further into the mountains to the Gergeti Glacier. For multi-day treks, make sure you are properly equipped.

Trekking in awesome mountain country

Summer wildflowers and snowcapped mountains

Reaching the Gergeti Trinity Church

View of the town of Kazbegi, surrounded by mountains!

The town itself is small and easily covered by foot. There are two museums in town, one of which is dedicated to the man who the town is named after - Alexander Kazbegi, a famed Georgian writer. However, the magic of the place is still the mountain scenery, and so hiking and trekking would be the best activities I would think. To make a mountain town stay complete, stay in one of the many homestays and guesthouses available. Most come with great homecooked food, and I enjoyed staying in these locals' homes. The moment you stepped off the marshrutka, you would be accosted by the owners, so no worries about finding them.

By public transport, reaching Kazbegi from Tbilisi is via marshrutkas from Didube station. For a group of you, perhaps it is better to charter your own vehicle as the journey there goes through the spectacular Georgian Military Highway, and you can have your own photo stops. Whichever the case, a trip to Kazbegi is highly recommended for visitors to Georgia/Tbilisi, and for the matter, a daytrip would probably not do the place justice. Do yourself a favor and enjoy Kazbegi!

Seoraksan National Park, South Korea

Seoraksan National Park is one of South Korea's most well-known and popular tourist attractions for nature enthusiasts. Hugely popular in autumn because of its fall foliage within the park, it is however beautiful in all seasons.

Going up to Ulsanbawi

 Mountains, forests, stone formations, streams and waterfalls - they are all featured inside the park. As with alot of scenic mountain parks in Japan and Korea, there is also a cablecar ropeway to one of the peaks. But the best way to enjoy the park is of course, the numerous hiking trails there! From easy 2-3 hour trails to multi-day trips, there should be one suitable for you.  I went on the Ulsanbawi Rock trail which took 4+hours return, and enjoyed it, although I would have prefered better weather when I was there :p. Nevertheless, the misty sceneries I had when I was there does add to the overall experience.

Misty within the park

Mountain sceneries like a Chinese painting

Pretty mountain streams add to your hiking experience

Mountain scenery on your hike!

It would be highly recommended to stay a few days to fully enjoy the park, instead of taking a touristy day-trip from Seoul or something. Those day-trippers could only afford a photo session with a giant Buddha statue and quick visits to the temples inside the park - hardly worth the while. One could easily get a bus from Seoul to Sokcho, the city with easiest access to Seoraksan National Park. Just outside the bus terminal in Sokcho, there are public buses to the National Park (bus no. 7), as well as Seorak-dong, the village just outside the park. There are accomodation options both in Sokcho, as well as Seorak-dong. But there is a hostel in Seorak-dong!

For photography enthusiasts, who would want convenient access for night photography or early morning photography, there is also a hotel right inside the park. The Seorak Tourist Hotel would also provide a special pass for you to re-enter the park, which is great for multi-day stays. Otherwise, for visitors who visit the park on different days, they would have to purchase separate park entry tickets. There is only one restaurant at the hotel though, so you may want to purchase all your necessary stuff in town before going in.

If you have time for your Korea trip, include Seoraksan into your itinerary!

Views from El Alto, Bolivia

La Paz, the administrative capital of Bolivia, is one of the highest capitals in the world. Sitting in a 'bowl' surrounded by high mountains, including the beautiful imposing peak Illimani (the 'guardian of La Paz'), the city should be viewed from afar. And one of the best places to see La Paz in its environment is in the neighbouring city of El Alto.

El Alto is one of the highest cities in the world at 4150m (La Paz is about 3650m). Thus from El Alto, there are commanding views over La Paz, which provide an excellent photographic setting. Aside from shooting during the day, stay till night where the city lights light up the valley, and the scene is easily one of the best city night scene you can find. Moreover, with Illimani as a backdrop, it was almost picture perfect. To complete the "perfectness", wait till a full moon day. When the full moon rises behind Illimani, it is really quite a beautiful sight!!

So here's sharing a gallery of photos of the views from El Alto!

Illimani, watching over La Paz

The city expanded up the hill and mountainside

Shadows and Light in La Paz

Moonrise over Illimani - Beautiful!

City lights at night, with moon over Illimani - picture perfect!

Northern Pakistan

When we read about Pakistan in the news, they are mostly on war, disasters and generally depressing and negative news. Which is such a waste, cos the country is such a wonderful travel destination. It's landscapes and sceneries are just fantastic, and with 8 of the 13 mountain peaks above 8000m in Pakistan, it is a mountaineer's dream destination.



But one of the most amazing things I experienced in Pakistan besides the landscapes, are the people. They are among the friendliest people I meet in my travels, and their hospitality is what makes travel in Pakistan one of the most memorable as well. I got invited for teas, and even joined a family for dinner in their house and they would go all out to make you comfortable. And we just met on the streets.





I flew into Lahore, and covered mostly Northern Pakistan, so I actually have no experience in travel in the southern part of the country. However, from what I gather, I do feel the northern part provides the best experience and photo opportunities in both landscapes as well as people and culture. Moreover, the Karakoram Highway is in any backpackers dream trip, and that alone could warrant you a trip to Northern Pakistan!

WuYi Shan

WuYi Shan (武夷山) lies in China's Fujian province, and is a popular Chinese tourist destination. It offers scenic views of "mountains and waters", which seems to exemplify the Chinese notion of tourism beauty. And it seems to be exactly the 2 main things to do in the area.


The scenic area provides lots of trekking opportunities as well as many climbs up the various peaks of the WuYiShan mountain range. However, as would be expected in China, many of these paths up the peaks come with entrance fees, and it have become a stairwell climbing exercise. But the views are indeed nice. The number one peak in Wuyi is Tian You Feng (天游峰) or Heavenly Tour Peak and there is a saying that "If you have not climbed Tian You Feng, you have not been to WuYi mountain!"

The more relaxing activity in WuYi Shan would be to take the bamboo raft trip down the river. The river/stream is known as Jiu Qu Xi (九曲溪) or Nine Bend Stream, which not surprisingly, meanders through the mountain range with nine major bends. In fact, at some of the mountain peaks, you can see some of the bends (as in the first picture).

The bamboo rafts are pretty much how it was like in the olden days, but they've added chairs atop the raft for us tourist. As the rafts are basically bamboo poles lashed together, your feet are bound to get wet. So for those unprepared, the locals around the area would be selling you plastic bags for you to keep your feet dry!! So do keep 2 NTUC plastic bags handy when you go there.... ;)

So basically, the boat is steered by 2 boatsmen, who are of course the owners of the rafts (each raft actually has a license plate of sorts). Each trip takes 6 passengers at 100yuan per person (2005). The boatsman each take 150yuan and 300yuan goes to the company that operates this business (government-linked I'm sure). On a low season day, each boatsman can make at least 6 trips... I was there during low season, and the queue was still super long!!

Although I spent 4 days there, the weather was terrible, and it rained everyday! I had to trek in the rain, and 1 of the day, I had to spend the whole day in the hotel room! Nevertheless, I can see why many tourists come here every year. The scenery is really like Chinese paintings. Moreover, if you're a chinese tea lover, WuYi Shan is also home to acres of oolong tea plantations!