Nicosia, the Last Divided Capital

I have been through some interesting border crossings, and one of the most interesting ones I had was in Nicosia, the capital of the Republic of Cyprus.

Border crossing? In a capital? Well, in 1974, Turkish forces invaded the north portion of the island of Cyprus, and as a result, as much as 40% of the island came under Turkish control. A ceasefire line was then established, and this demilitarised zone became the United Nations Buffer Zone, more commonly known as the Green Line. The northern part went on to declare itself independent, and became what is known as the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC), though it is only recognised by Turkey.

Amazingly, this Green Line cuts through the capital city, and equally amazingly, the border crossing is situated within the old walled city in its main shopping street!! Luckily, the old walled city separation was equal, and Nicosia became known as the last divided capital.

Interestingly shaped walled city, divided into two

Imagine walking along a shopping street known as Ledra street. Then the street abruptly ends at some sort of a junction (I was on the TRNC side and I remember there were some clothes on a rack on display) and right in front is the border controls. Border formality is simple enough, with a simple paper "visa" issued and stamped. Then you walk into a block of "alleyway" that is within the Green Line. When I was there, there was small a photo exhibition within it, surrounded by crumbling building facade! When you reach the other end of the border control, the shopping street then continues (but of course, in another "country")!

Border control & shopping

Within the Green Line

Photo of the historic event in the photo exhibition

Known as Lefkosia by the Greeks, the capital city itself is quite interesting, with contrasting architectures and lifestyles. The Republic of Cyprus is part of the EU and uses the euro, while TRNC uses the Turkish lira. So things are markedly cheaper on the Turkish side and I usually try to have my meals on the Turkish side :). Attractions are mainly the usual city stuff of museums, churches etc, so grab your favourite guidebook for that.

And then, there is *another* border crossing, just outside the walled city. And no less bizarre. This border crossing is actually within a hotel premises!! So for the curious, one should walk out of the walled city and do this crossing as well.

Ledra Palace Hotel crossing outside the walled city

Nationalistic border post

Getting in, there are flights to Larnaca in the south, from various European cities but they seemed quite expensive. Most would visit via ferry or cruise ships from Greece, but I flew into TRNC instead. Flights into TRNC are only available from Turkey, but I was in Turkey prior, and the flights are cheap, so it worked out well.

For those who are into quirky border crossings, you have to check out the last divided capital!

The Ruined City of Ani

One of the attractions of Eastern Turkey, for those who venture there, is Ani, a ruined city-site that sits on a dramatic landscape of steppes, ravines and valleys. But be it the landscape or the ruins, the whole area exudes a sense of eerie sadness that makes you wonder about its past, and is really what I would exemplify as a 'ghost city'!

Cathedral of Ani bathed in golden sunlight

Ani was actually an Armenian city, and its current status on Turkish soil, on the border to Armenia, had been disputed and challenged between the two countries. During its peak in its eventful history, Ani had been the capital of the Armenian empire, but tragically, on its route of decline, it had seen through a long list of empires. While previously known as the 'City of 1001 Churches' or 'City of 40 Gates', what is left behind are faded facades and crumbling stones.

Archaeological excavations was started in 1892 under the Russians, and thankfully, some artifacts were preserved even after going through its turbulent history. Today, some news and reports indicate that some excavations and restorations are underway by the Turkish government, though when I visited, there were little indications :| ... The area is still within the Turkish military zone, and Armenia is just across from the river at the site, but I did not see any particular restrictions when I was there.

Crumbling structures

Most visitors to Ani start off in the city of Kars. In 2011, there is supposedly a public dolmus (shared vans) from Kars to the village just outside Ani twice a day. Otherwise, the best bet is to hire a taxi for the day. The site is well worth exploring and I would recommend spending at least half a day there. I spent the whole day there, till the closing time, and there wasn't any dolmus going back to Kars in the evening! Luckily, I managed to hitch a ride back from a group of Georgian tourists. Do bring along snacks/food and water, as when you enter the site, there isn't any tourist facilities except at the gate.

In the past, there were supposedly restrictions on photography, but apparently, it had been removed. For ruins, the image of the Church of the Redeemer would be particularly impactful, as half of its structure had collapsed. Check out also the Cathedral of Ani. The frescoes within some buildings are also quite beautiful. And if you stay till closing time, the late afternoon light on the ruins are also wonderful!

One of the highlights of Eastern Turkey!

Faded and damaged frescoes inside one of the cathedrals

Church of the Redeemer

Views from El Alto, Bolivia

La Paz, the administrative capital of Bolivia, is one of the highest capitals in the world. Sitting in a 'bowl' surrounded by high mountains, including the beautiful imposing peak Illimani (the 'guardian of La Paz'), the city should be viewed from afar. And one of the best places to see La Paz in its environment is in the neighbouring city of El Alto.

El Alto is one of the highest cities in the world at 4150m (La Paz is about 3650m). Thus from El Alto, there are commanding views over La Paz, which provide an excellent photographic setting. Aside from shooting during the day, stay till night where the city lights light up the valley, and the scene is easily one of the best city night scene you can find. Moreover, with Illimani as a backdrop, it was almost picture perfect. To complete the "perfectness", wait till a full moon day. When the full moon rises behind Illimani, it is really quite a beautiful sight!!

So here's sharing a gallery of photos of the views from El Alto!

Illimani, watching over La Paz

The city expanded up the hill and mountainside

Shadows and Light in La Paz

Moonrise over Illimani - Beautiful!

City lights at night, with moon over Illimani - picture perfect!