Nicosia, the Last Divided Capital

I have been through some interesting border crossings, and one of the most interesting ones I had was in Nicosia, the capital of the Republic of Cyprus.

Border crossing? In a capital? Well, in 1974, Turkish forces invaded the north portion of the island of Cyprus, and as a result, as much as 40% of the island came under Turkish control. A ceasefire line was then established, and this demilitarised zone became the United Nations Buffer Zone, more commonly known as the Green Line. The northern part went on to declare itself independent, and became what is known as the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC), though it is only recognised by Turkey.

Amazingly, this Green Line cuts through the capital city, and equally amazingly, the border crossing is situated within the old walled city in its main shopping street!! Luckily, the old walled city separation was equal, and Nicosia became known as the last divided capital.

Interestingly shaped walled city, divided into two

Imagine walking along a shopping street known as Ledra street. Then the street abruptly ends at some sort of a junction (I was on the TRNC side and I remember there were some clothes on a rack on display) and right in front is the border controls. Border formality is simple enough, with a simple paper "visa" issued and stamped. Then you walk into a block of "alleyway" that is within the Green Line. When I was there, there was small a photo exhibition within it, surrounded by crumbling building facade! When you reach the other end of the border control, the shopping street then continues (but of course, in another "country")!

Border control & shopping

Within the Green Line

Photo of the historic event in the photo exhibition

Known as Lefkosia by the Greeks, the capital city itself is quite interesting, with contrasting architectures and lifestyles. The Republic of Cyprus is part of the EU and uses the euro, while TRNC uses the Turkish lira. So things are markedly cheaper on the Turkish side and I usually try to have my meals on the Turkish side :). Attractions are mainly the usual city stuff of museums, churches etc, so grab your favourite guidebook for that.

And then, there is *another* border crossing, just outside the walled city. And no less bizarre. This border crossing is actually within a hotel premises!! So for the curious, one should walk out of the walled city and do this crossing as well.

Ledra Palace Hotel crossing outside the walled city

Nationalistic border post

Getting in, there are flights to Larnaca in the south, from various European cities but they seemed quite expensive. Most would visit via ferry or cruise ships from Greece, but I flew into TRNC instead. Flights into TRNC are only available from Turkey, but I was in Turkey prior, and the flights are cheap, so it worked out well.

For those who are into quirky border crossings, you have to check out the last divided capital!

Salar de Uyuni & Isla del Pescado

There are tons of articles and blogs on the internet extolling the wonders of Salar de Uyuni, and why not? The surreal-ness of the largest salt flat in the world is indeed a wonder. And within the salt flat itself sits another wonder - an island of giant cactii - Isla del Pescado.

Imagine driving through an expanse of land that is the reflection of the heavens. And as you emerge out of this reflection, a rocky outcrop of land materializes which tears your attention from the unending white around. The wonder would hit you when you draw closer to the island and realized that the "trees" on the island are giant cactii!!

The island is named Isla del Pescado or Fish Island, as it was supposed to take the shape of a fish when viewed from a distance. I must have been too mesmerized by everything around to have noticed then. On the island, there is a short trail through the cactus forest that leads you to a high point which gives you a fantastic view of the surrounding salt flats. And watching the setting sun slowly withdrawing its golden light off the white salt flats is also quite a wonder!

Staying overnight on the island may be an issue and special arrangements with your travel agency is probably necessary to facilitate that. There is no tourist rooms, and we had to sleep on the floor of a small office building of some kind! But the experience is definitely worth it, as the scene of the giant cactii rising towards the star-studded skies is just one-of-a-kind!!

The Salar de Uyuni and Isla del Pescado is a definite highlight of any trip to Bolivia!

Manjanggul Cave, South Korea

Jeju Island is one of South Korea's main tourist hotspots, and the volcanic island is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Classified under the Natural section, its Lava Tubes are highly regarded and valued around the world.

Walking in the lava tube in Manjanggul

The Geomunoreum Lava Tube System is a series of lava tube caves formed when the Geomunoreum volcano erupted 100 to 300 thousand years ago. The biggest of these lava tube caves is Manjanggul Cave, and the tunnels through the cave runs for 7416 metres! However, only one section of about 1km is open to the public.

Formed by volcanic lava flows, the tunnels and caves are literally "carved" out by lava flows. You can actually see the flow lines on the tunnel walls! So it was quite surreal to think that molten rock created this huge passageway that you are now walking on. There are also many formations within the cave as a result of hardened lava, and many of these provide excellent geological value for scientific studies. There are even lava stalactites formed! Many parts have signs with explanations of the various features, so it's very educational. There are also many species of cave creatures that inhabit the cave, which again provide rich academic value. Luckily, the tourist section of the cave were spared visitations by these creatures :)

Manjanggul Cave is accessible by public bus from Jeju city as well as Seogwipo. However, from the bus-stop on the main road, it's another 30+minutes of walking to the entrance of the cave. Luckily, it's a nice scenic walk. Of course, with a hired car, things get more convenient (and most would agree that Jeju is best visited with a car). Visitors should bring some warm clothings as the temperature inside the cave range between 11-18 deg Celsius. A torchlight may be useful too although the cave and tunnels have some lights, they are unfortunately gawdily coloured (I feel).

Highly recommended visit!

The 30+ minute walk to the entrance is a scenic walk :)

Odaiba, Tokyo

One of the less visited district in Tokyo (esp for first-timers) is Odaiba (お台場), a shopping and entertainment area which Tokyo has plenty of. But since April 2012, there is an additional reason to drop by there.

Odaiba is actually on a man-made island on Tokyo Bay. Created by huge landfills joining several small islands into one big one, it now has a futuristic and glitzy outlook so typical of Tokyo. Boasting of several huge shopping malls and entertainment complexes, it is a popular hangout for the locals. There are also state-of-the-art modern buildings like the Fuji TV tower and Tokyo Big Sight, the latter being Japan's largest exhibition and convention center.

Connected to the rest of Tokyo by the Rainbow Bridge, reaching the island by public transport is easy with the Yurikamome train line. You could also drive across the bridge or even walk across, as there is a pedestrian walkway but the views along the way are great on the train line, since its an elevated line. One of the primary reasons for visiting Odaiba is the beautiful view of the lighted Rainbow Bridge at night.

On 19 April 2012, another entertainment and dining complex opened in Odaiba - DiverCity Tokyo Plaza. Its star attraction is the Gundam Front Tokyo, a shop/museum/attraction dedicated to the anime. And right in front of the building, is a huge "life-size" Gundam model And one that moves!!!

Three times a day, there is some light and sound "show" where the Gundam statue "comes to life". Before you get overly excited, the only part that moves is the head. While Japan is one of the most technologically advanced countries, a real Gundam I'm sure would make huge international news. Nevertheless, for Gundam fans, seeing the 18metre statue would certainly make your day, and make your trip to Odaiba worthwhile! And in the shop in the building, there is a huge display of all kind of Gundam models as well.

Check it out if you have spare time in Tokyo!

Taquile island, Lake Titicaca

Taquile Island on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca is a gem of a destination. Lake Titicaca, a highland lake in the Andes, covers both Peru and Bolivia. There are several islands on the lake worth a visit, and Taquile is certainly one of them.

 

The islanders, known as Taquileños, have developed a community-based tourism model, offering services such as homestays, restaurants, guides etc. This protected them from losing their heritage and livelihood from mass-tourism from non-islanders. They are well-known for their handwoven textiles, and are supposedly of the highest quality in Peru. A designated shop in the "village square" of sorts sells the islander's textile products, ranging from mantas, to handicrafts to clothings. The islanders are friendly, and there are no hassling to buy stuff etc and almost all of them are still dressed in a semi traditional way. And it's so interesting seeing the men knitting away continuously while walking/talking/resting etc!

But what I like is that the children on the island do not swarm to you asking for money or anything. They go about their normal life, but children being children, they are still curious about tourists, and they would often glance in our direction for a glimpse of three Asian faces (I was with two other friends).

The island also has some Inca ruins, but unfortunately are situated at the top of the island, which stands at above 4000m! So climbing up may be a little breathless, but the views are great, and so coming up during sunrise/sunset would be awesome. Overnight stay would be recommended, and as most tourists seemed to be day-trippers, you would likely get the place mostly to yourself!

From Puno, ferries ply the various islands on the lake daily. Note that the journey from Puno to Taquile takes 3-4 hours. Once you land on the island, there will be locals offering homestays, and while the accommodation is pretty basic, the experience would be certainly memorable!

Jindo Miracle Sea Festival

Once a year in Jindo, one of many islands off Mokpo in the province of Jeollanam-do in South Korea, a festival would take place that would seem of biblical proportions. Known as Jindo Miracle Sea Festival, or Jindo Sea Parting Festival, the seas would part to reveal a road leading from Jindo to a neightbouring island.

While also known as the 'Moses Miracle', local legend instead tell of an old lady who was somehow left behind when the other villagers in Jindo fled to the neighbouring island because of some wild tigers. She prayed to the Sea God who then parted the sea for her to join her family. The phenomenon though, divine or not, actually happens 2-3 times a year, when the tide is at its extreme lowest, revealing a land bridge of sorts that actually connects Jindo to that particular island. The Festival though, was to be held only once a year (well to make it special I guess), and during then, you could join in the festivities and walk the 2.8km land bridge to the island.

Like many festivals in Korea, a carnival of sorts are almost mandatory, complete with food tents, music and performances. Once evening descends (approx 5pm), when the sea "parts" for an hour or so, the locals spring into action - no, not to cross the parted sea, but to scour the land!! This is something definitely more down-to-earth - free seafood for the masses! From seaweed to mussels, from crabs to abalone, families comb the land bridge for the riches of the seabed. No doubt what sort of dinner these families are having for the week... What a sight!

There are express buses from Seoul to Jindo which takes about 5hrs, and there are direct ferries from Jeju to Jindo too. However, for those who would want to enjoy the festival or event longer, it may be a good idea to stay in Mokpo, which is easily accessible via train from Seoul as well. Mokpo to Jindo is just 30minutes by bus. There are a couple of accomodation options in Jindo too, but as the Formula One race had arrived in Mokpo some years back, the upgraded motels in Mokpo seemed very well valued with excellent in-room facilities at affordable prices (we had a luxurious twin room for 55,000 won).

For those who have yet to experience a "miracle", check out Jindo's Miracle Sea Festival! ;)

Rebun Island, Hokkaido

Rebunto or Rebun Island, lies just off Hokkaido's northern tip and forms part of the Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park. As it is quite literally the most northern part of Japan, it requires some getting to, and so not that many visitors come to the island. But for those that do, it is mainly for two reasons, it's flora and the many hiking options.



During the summer months of June to August, Rebunto burst into bloom and that's where visitors start flocking to the island. The island hosts some alpine flowers which are supposedly found nowhere else! There are also a good selection of hiking options, as well as acommodation options on the island, all of which can be found right in the ferry terminal (most is in Japanese, but there are some English information to get by).

Unfortunately, I went on a hiking trail (the 4-hour course) that features more of the coastal scenery than the flowers, so I did not get to see many of the famed flora. Nevertheless, it was a great walk with great views, and I really enjoyed it. And the trail ended right at the northern tip of the island, where there is a minshuku (a homestay) which claims to be the northernmost minshuku in Japan! (no, I didn't stay there)



Access to Rebunto (and Rishirito) is via Heartland Ferry from Wakkanai. There are limited express trains and buses to Wakkanai from Sapporo. It is possible to get from Sapporo to Rebunto in a day, but you have to get the earliest train noting the ferry schedule. If you are a hiking and flower fan visiting Hokkaido in Japan, do check out Rebun island!

Crossing the Dragon's Back

The Chinese love a good name, and what could go wrong with a name with the word 'dragon' in it? Dragon's Back refers to a ridgetop on the eastern end of Hong Kong island in Hong Kong, and it provides ones of the best hiking trails you can find in today's urban Hong Kong.


As part of a bigger pan-island hiking trail, known as the Hong Kong Trail, Dragon's Back is the last stage of the trail, and the longest. Lying within Shek O park, the route goes through some forested land, mini waterfalls, and the trail along the ridge rewards you with stupendous views of the coast and islands. And best of all, the trail ends at Big Wave Bay, a beachfront getaway for many urbanites, providing cold beers after a satisfying hike.



The hike is simple enough, taking 3+ hours at a leisurely pace. However, there is no cover at the ridge, and so if you're doing it in summer (like me), be prepared to be grilled. Getting to the trail head is easy as well; take MTR to Shau Kei Mei station, and look for the NWF Bus 9. The cost is something like HKD6.90 and you can ask the driver to stop at the trailhead. There are also minibuses (at HKD10) that ply the route whenever it fills up. We actually took the minibus back from Big Wave Bay.



Hong Kong is known for shopping and eating. But try out hiking the Dragon's Back!

Tai O (大澳)

Tai O, a fishing village on Lantau island, is really quite a nice getaway from the bustle and hustle of the city streets of Hong Kong. A perfect day trip after all the shopping....



Known as the "Venice of Hong Kong", one of the features of the village is that the houses are built on stilts. Being a fishing village, you might be asked by some of the locals to have a tour of the village by boat. During low tide, you can actually walk around the houses via walkway planks that are also on stilts! The houses are actually all still very old, and it is really quite interesting exploring the place.
Tai O is also famous for its salted fish, and if you do walk around the village on stilts, you can see lots of families drying the fishes in basket trays. In the village centre on land, old shophouses lined the streets, and a walk through it is literally like walking in a street of a bygone era! Of course, you also have your fair share of products being hawkered.



Being just a bus ride away from Hong Kong itself, Tai O is easily reached, and thus, it is a recommended day trip for those who have some extra time in Hong Kong. Check it out!

Pulau Ubin, Singapore

Pulau Ubin, an island off Singapore, is one of the last few places left, that Singaporeans can enjoy alittle bit of rural life. During weekends, it has become a favourite getaway for many. Easily accessed via bumboats from Changi, it makes for a great day-trip and even a simple overnight camping trip.

Cycling remains the most popular activity in Pulau Ubin. Aside from that, Chek Jawa, a wetlands nature spot, has become a focal point in nature education and conservation for Singapore. There are even resorts/chalets on the island that provide a complete holiday experience.

I hope the urban developement that rampages through Singapore stop short of this island. While hoping, photography is all I could do to preserve this portion of Singapore. Besides, the sunrises and sunsets here is pretty!