Kashgar Old Town

When I covered Kashgar 2 years back, I mentioned that the highlight for me was the Old Town. Last year, there were news that Kashgar's Old Town will be razed. The Chinese government of course had various reasons for it, but whatever the case or reasons, the news saddened me greatly.

Wandering through the streets of the Old Town epitomises the magic of travel. Admiring old historic buildings, witnessing ancient cultures and lifestyle, getting lost around mazy streets, uncovering little surprises, getting stares from locals, friendly children giggling at you, the experience is unforgetable. Unfortunately, I didn't take that many photos, but the ones I have gave me fond memories....

Bai Haba (白哈巴), North Xinjiang

Northern Xinjiang is a lovely place to visit, esp in autumn. Besides the wonderful trek between Kanas and Hemu village, there is another village very well worth the time to visit - Bai Haba (白哈巴) village, the most northwestern village in China.


Bai Haba or White Haba village, is situated right at the border between China and Kazakhstan. You can actually arrange to visit the border post with your driver/guide. There is no bus to this village, so transport arrangements have to be made from Kanas, one of the more touristy town in Northern Xinjiang. However, the highlight of the place is the village itself. In autumn, the village is literally covered in yellow and gold, and the setting is so tranquil, just having a picnic in the village surrounds is an enjoyment worth the trip to Xinjiang alone!



The villagers consists of some Kazaks and mainly the Tuwa/Tuva (of Mongolian descent) people. They seem to keep to themselves, not so much as unfriendly, but probably more reserved about meeting strangers. However, we stumbled upon a school and the children, being children, are alot more curious, though still shy. The Tuwa/Tuva people, from what I gather, are dwindling in numbers and am glad that I had the opportunity to meet them.



White Haba village is a place where time had stood still, and is one of my most memorable places that I've visited. Not to mention the excellent photo opportunities here too!!

Tian Shan (天山)

Tian Shan (天山) (sometimes spelt Tien Shan), or Heavenly Mountains, is a range of mountains that cover a large part of Xinjiang China. It extends all the way to the borders of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, and feature quite abit in Xinjiang tourism. And for good reasons!


With its snow-capped peaks, massive glaciers and rugged beauty, it is no wonder that adventurers, travellers, backpackers love to visit it. It has been the focus of Chinese authors and filmmakers too, who decided that the name and landscape lends itself to glorifying wuxia tales. From valiant swordsmen training in the mountains, to rare herbs hidden in the peaks, the area does provide a stimulus to such imagination.




There is also a Tian Chi (天池), or Heavenly Lake, which lies near Bogda peak, one of the peaks of the TianShan range near Urumqi. Being near the city, it has been marketed by the Chinese tourism authorities, and is now quite touristy. While certainly pretty, the tourist crowds can get quite large, and so, if you do decide to take a look at Tian Chi, I suggest looking beyond the day tours offered by the many agencies in Urumqi city. This holds true for other day tours to the Tian Shan as well, eg. the visits to "No. 1" glacier etc. Arrange for a couple of days of trekking in the Tian Shan region would be perfect. Nevertheless, be it a day or multi-days, these TianShan ranges are sure worth a visit!

Hemu

Hemu is a delightful village situated in the northern regions of Xinjiang China. Set amidst forests of birch & poplars, the village bursts into fields of yellow and orange during autumn and draws many Chinese photographers all over.




The village is accessed mainly via private vehicle or trekking. There is a very popular 2-day trek from Hemu to Kanas (or vice versa), another even more popular Chinese retreat. The main draw of Kanas is Kanas lake, which is turning out to be too touristy for my liking. However, the trek is fabulous, and while most travellers do the trek on a horse (a horse trek), those who wants flexibility for photography should do their trek on foot. The trek passes through beautiful valleys of the Altai mountains, and the typical overnight stays are in local yurts, hosted by nomadic Kazaks. The most common overnight location would be near Black Lake, and even in autumn, the place would often snow, so appropriate clothings should be prepared.

Hemu village itself comprises mostly of Kazaks. In the height of autum season, every morning before the sun rises, hordes of photographers would make their way up a hill which overlooks the village. Early morning mists would cover the village, and when the sun rises, it dissipates the mists and casts its rays onto the wooden houses of the village. Sandwiched between the golden forestry, it's a scene that will easily bewitch anyone, let alone photographers!



While there are many local (Chinese) photographers/tourists/travellers, foreigners are still almost non-existent there. Whichever the state the village will eventually become, I am glad I managed to see its current beauty.

Kashgar

Kashgar, or Kashi in Chinese, is an important city along the silk roads during the days of old. Inevitably, today, it is now one of the major stops for tourists/backpackers travelling the Silk Road route. However, most people on a tour package would only have a day or two here, which is a shame really, as I think here is place which you should savour at a slower pace.




Two widely known attractions in Kashgar would be its Sunday Market and Abakh Khoja's Tomb. The latter, one of the holiest place in Xinjiang, houses the remains of Abakh Khoja, who was a powerful ruler of Kashgar, and the leader of the White Hat Sect of Islam. However, it is his grand-daughter, who was also entombed here (as was 71 other relatives/descendants), that has gained more fame than him today. She is supposed to be the Fragrance Concubine of the Qing emperor QianLong, and so most people know this attraction as Xiang Fei Mu (tomb)!

As for the Sunday Market, it is indeed an eye opener for many. However, certain parts of the market have succumbed to the tourist boom, and there is now a huge mall-like structure that houses scores of stalls selling the same stuff. Better to stick to the stalls outside, where you see all kinds of foodstuff and services being marketed. In particular, the livestock market should not be missed. Apparently, it has been moved further away and separated from the main market (possibly for hygiene reasons?). But it sure is far more interesting, as you can literally see the locals selecting/haggling over sheep, horses, cows and the like! Definitely one of the highlights of Kashgar!

The other highlight for me, is a walk into the Old Town of Kashgar. Here, away from the bustle of commerce and other tourists, you can see the real daily life of the locals. What's more, if you wander around at the right time, you can catch a glimpse of the children going/leaving school, and they are a delight to capture! They just love to have their pictures taken (and shown to them)! I could spend a day walking around just like that!



It certainly helps that Kashgar is also the start/end point of the Karakoram Highway, which attracts lots of travellers. But even if it's not, this city is worth a visit in its own right.

Karakuli Lake

The journey through the Karakoram Highway into Xinjiang China typically ends at Kashgar, a fascinating city to visit in its own right. But in between that and Tashkurgan, the border town of China and Pakistan, lies a gem of exquisite beauty that simply deserves recommendation.


Karakuli Lake, a highland lake at 3600m, sits below the majestic grandeur of the Pamir range. The reflections of the ice-covered peaks of Mt Khongur and Muztagh Ata on the lake itself is certainly one of the highlights of the visit. Treks can be done round the lake, and even to the base of Muztagh Ata itself. However, due to the altitude, make sure you are properly acclimatised.



Around the lake itself, small pockets of Khirghiz living in their yurts can provide for an interesting night stay in Karakuli Lake. However, the ugly side of tourism has emerged as the Chinese government seems to be building a fence and some "resort" round the lake and charging for entrance fees! My stay outside the fenced area, with a Khirghiz family was alot more authentic I feel. But of course, you'll have to live with its basic facilities, which means no heater in the cold night, and enduring nature's calling if its gets too cold outside. It actually snowed in the night even though it was late summer/early autumn!



Transport to Karakuli can be easily arranged in Kashgar, with many travel agents providing the service. If coming from Pakistan/Tashkurgan, the bus from Tashkurgan to Kashgar passes by Karakuli lake, and you can easily get the driver to alight you here. Again, highly recommended for me!